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Athens, Greece

We recently visited Europe’s oldest capital and one of the world’s oldest cities, Athens, which dates back over 3,400 years. This historic city is frequently referred to as the cradle of Western civilization and the birthplace of democracy. 

Of the many important cultural achievements of ancient Athens, democracy, philosophy, drama and the Olympics rank very highly among them. These groundbreaking milestones helped shape Western civilization and had a profound impact on the European continent.

The city skyline is dominated by the iconic Parthenon which sits atop the Acropolis Hill, visible from all over the metropolis.

We elected to stay just outside the city center at the five-star Four Seasons Astir Palace Hotel, a resort with an incredibly storied history. The hotel’s impressive roster of former guests includes Frank Sinatra, Paul Newman, John Wayne, The Beatles, Barack Obama, Richard Nixon, John F. Kennedy, Jimmy Carter, Margaret Thatcher, Vladimir Putin, Mikhail Gorbachev, Roger Moore and Pierce Brosnan!


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Dream

Four Seasons Astir Palace Hotel Athens - This historic resort complex originally opened in 1967 and following a five-year complete top-to-bottom $250m gut-renovation, reopened in March 2019. The result is a stunning brand-new resort experience of the highest level, with almost every amenity anyone could desire, all of it exuding quality, refinement and European sophistication. It is conveniently located on the pine-clad Vouliagmeni peninsular, often referred to as the Athens Riveria, 13 miles or 30 minutes by taxi from central Athens. Taxi transportation to and from the center is comfortably and economically provided via an association with a local taxi firm with a fleet of pastel yellow Mercedes and other luxury vehicles, with a fixed fare of only 28 Euros each way.

The resort originally consisted of three hotel buildings: the Arion dating from 1967, the Nafsika which opened in 1979, and the Aphrodite which was added in 1984. Following the overhaul there are now two hotel buildings: the Arion with 101 rooms, and the Nafsika with 133 rooms, plus an additional 61 bungalows, all managed by Four Seasons in their first hotel operation in Greece. The Aphrodite was demolished and is to be replaced by 13 luxury villas. 

Facilities at the resort are brand new and first class. Each of the hotels has a gym, with that at the Nafsika ranking amongst the best we have seen at any hotel. 

There are three private beaches linked by a 1,000-foot boardwalk curving around the seafront, with sun loungers and cabanas as far as the eye can see. There are three swimming pools: the infinity pool at Arion; an indoor lap-pool; and the huge free-form family pool with olive trees set between the Nafsika and the Aegean Sea. And there is a spa with ten treatment rooms apparently inspired by the teachings of Hippocrates.

There are numerous eateries at the resort, more of which below. In addition, there is easy access to other marquee dining options on the Astir Peninsular such as Nobu’s Matsuhisa Restaurant Athens, which is just a short walk away, accessible from the boardwalk.


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Dine

Four Seasons Astir Palace Hotel Athens – there are eight restaurants, lounges and bars at the resort, enough to satisfy all manner of culinary desires.

We started each day at Pelagos restaurant in Arion, with its spectacular sea views, stunning interior design, and bountiful breakfast buffet. In the evening, we took drinks in the social center of the resort, Avra Lounge and Terrace in Nafsika or had coffee at the Astron Lounge & Terrace in Arion.

In addition to these, there is Taverna 37 – a traditional beachfront taverna by the boardwalk, open seasonally; Mercato – a stylish Italian trattoria open all day with a varied menu including Neapolitan-style pizza in Nafsika; Helios – a Latin American grill and poolside lounge by the main family pool beside Nafsika; Aristotle’s – a cigar lounge with rare cognacs, whiskeys and craft cocktails; and finally, 24-hour room service is available.

Cookoovaya Restaurant - The restaurant name means owl in Greek – the symbol of Athens and of wisdom. In December 2014, five renowned Greek chefs got together to celebrate “wise cuisine” in this modern, high-end, Michelin-recommended restaurant. Known for its fresh baked pies from the kitchen’s wood oven, the eclectic menu also lists fish dishes and very good steaks. Well worth a visit.

GB Roof Garden Restaurant, Hotel Grande Bretagne – with breathtaking views of the Acropolis, Syntagma Square and Parliament, and the original Olympic Stadium, this fine-dining restaurant is a great option for lunch or dinner. The historic, landmark hotel in which it is located dates from 1874 and is located in the heart of the city.

Electra Metropolis Athens Roof Garden – this is one of three Electra Hotels in Athens, and the Roof Garden on the tenth floor is a great option for coffee, cocktails or dinner. The vibe is a little more relaxed and modern than the Hotel Grande Bretange yet still upscale. One of the best vantage points in the city to watch the sun set over Acropolis Hill and marvel at the Parthenon illuminated by floodlights from the comfort of your table on the outdoor terrace.


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Do

The Parthenon on Acropolis Hill – at the center of everything and the obvious “must-see” Athenian attraction, the reality of witnessing this iconic landmark lives up to its reputation. Quite simply stunning, and that is before you delve into the incredible backstory and history of the building and its cultural significance through the ages. We took a private guided tour on our initial visit, and on another day returned for some additional time at a more leisurely pace to take additional photos and soak up the incredible aura of one of the world’s most significant tourist attractions.

The Acropolis Museum – one of our favorite museums anywhere, the museum opened in 2009, designed to house every artifact found on the rock and surrounding slopes of the archeological site of the Acropolis of Athens, which is located nearby. The museum sits on top of the ruins of a large, ancient urban settlement which was discovered after the site was selected and is incorporated into the structure. There are four levels to the museum, the uppermost being the Parthenon Gallery. This mirrors the exact dimensions and orientation of the Parthenon and contains the frieze pieced together with a combination of the original blocks of the frieze, placed here to protect them from the elements, and cast copies of the pieces in museums abroad , such as the Elgin Marbles in the British Museum and other pieces in the Louvre, Paris.

Temple of Olympian Zeus – this is the site of the ruins of a former colossal temple at the center of Athens. Dedicated to the Olympian god Zeus, during Roman times the temple, which comprised of 104 columns was renowned as the largest temple in Greece. Today, 16 of the original columns remain.

Panathenaic Stadium - visit the site of the first modern Olympic Games held in 1896. This incredibly impressive structure in the center of Athens is the only stadium in the world constructed entirely of marble. It was once again used as an Olympic venue in 2004.

Kolonaki Neighborhood - take a stroll through the Kolonaki neighborhood, Athens’ upscale shopping area, with high-end international brands and Greek boutiques, together with many fine-dining restaurants, tavernas and bars. Kolonaki Square is the main square in the area, named after the small ancient column at its center, and is surrounded by cafes and restaurants. There are also many museums in the area including the Byzantine Museum and the War Museum of Athens.


Images from Athens